Born 1906 in Camberley, English-American fashion designer Charles James started his career as a milliner, and opened his first shop in Chicago at the tender age of 19. He called this Charles Boucheron, borrowing the surname from a friend.
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| Charles James gowns photographed by Cecil Beaton for Vogue, 1948 |
James has been called America’s first couturier. He is famous for his beautiful, sculpted ball gowns and tailored daywear. He is one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century and continues to influence new generations of designers.
James retired in 1958. His last years were plagued by drug abuse and decline. The talented designer died in 1978, aged 72. Take a look at these vintage photos to see stunning designs by Charles James in the 1940s and 1950s.
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| Charles James' figure-eight skirt is shown in an ensemble meant for tropical evening wear, rather than beach attire worn by model Betty McLauchlen, photo by Martin Munkacsi, Harper's Bazaar, 1940 |
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| Liz Gibbons in green satin evening coat by Charles James, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, 1940 |
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| Millicent Rogers in gown by Charles James, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1940 |
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| Betty Threatt is wearing a hat made up of gold surplus Navy braid by Chanda, silver faille dress by Charles James, Kislav gloves, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, November 1946 |
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| Dorian Leigh in a fuschia taffeta ball dress flaring concentrically from molded bodice to flaring skirt, model in back is in lead-colored faille over gun-metal satin skirt, both by Charles James, photo by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, 1946 |
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| Inga Lindgren in a cobalt faille gown, festooned from hip to hip, the bodice folded to a point and held by a thin strap by Charles James, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, October 1946 |
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| Betty Threatt in dramatic dress of superbly massed cerulean satin offset by an olive-feathered wing fan by Charles James, gloves by Aris, diamonds by Harry Winston, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, April 1947 |
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| Model in evening coat of yellow satin-back silk faille lined with pale blue silk duchesse satin by Charles James, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, August 1947 |
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| Leslie Ames in a Charles James gown, photo by Ceceil Beaton for Modess ad, 1948 |
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| Liz Pringle (left) and model in sumptious ball gowns of satin by Charles James, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, December 1948 |
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| Model in Charles James gown as featured in Modess ad campaign, photo by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, November 1, 1948 |
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| The Charles James gown is worn by model Dorian Leigh, 1948 |
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| Mary Jane Russell in a full-length velvet evening coat with its own geometric angles by Charles James, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue 1949 |
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| Millicent Rogers (Mrs. Huttleston Rogers) in beautiful gown by Charles James, photo by Gene Fenn, Harper's Bazaar UK, July 1949 |
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| Model in gown called the "Black Tulip", a satin stem and faille overskirt shaped like a tulip upcurved in back and built on structure of bones and buckram, by Charles James, photo by Richard Avedon, Harper's Bazaar, July 1949 |
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| Mrs. Leland (Nancy Gross) Hayward (the future 'Slim' Keith) embodying the "James Look", photo by Fernand Fonssagrives, Town & Country, October 1949 |
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| Close-up of evening coat worn over ball gown by Fashion Guild award winner Charles James, photo by Eliot Elisofon, October 1950 |
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| Maxime de la Falaise in gown by Charles James, photo by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, November 1, 1950 |
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| Mrs. William S. Paley in her 5th Ave. apartment in evening gown by Charles James, photo by John Rawlings, 1950 |
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| Yvette Chauviré, premiere danseuse of the Paris Opera Ballet, wears a dress of white organdie with bodice of ruby velvet and sash of orange satin by Charles James, photo by Genevieve Naylor, Harper's Bazaar, July 1950 |
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| Eva Gerney in lovely suit of ribbed silk lined in turquoise designed by Charles James, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, July 1951 |
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| Evelyn Tripp in a Charles James evening dress, photo by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, 1951 |
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| Jean Patchett is wearing a Charles James ball gown, Vogue, November 1, 1951 |
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| Dovima in white Alençon lace dress with black faille band and flowers under bodice which is lined in yellow taffeta, skirt is trumpet flared, by Charles James, photo by Roger Prigent, Vogue, September 1952 |
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| Model in pressed wool broadcloth evening coat, it's shorter than day-length, narrow and then shaped into a petunia flare, designed by Charles James for William Popper, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, September 1, 1952 |
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| Model in sculptural ivory satin gown with black velvet swaths in a serpentine effect on the four-lobed skirt, by Charles James, photo by Philip Stearns, New York City, Harper's Bazaar UK, October 1953 |
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| Anne Gunning in variation of Charles James' "Four-Leaf Clover" gown, photo by Milton Greene, 1954 |
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| Model in Charles James' 'Butterfly Gown', photo by Cecil Beaton, 1954 |
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| Mustard wool coat edged in velvet by Charles James, photo by Nina Leen, 1954 |